Climbing runner vs sling reddit. The document has moved here.
Climbing runner vs sling reddit. You can usually get them 40% off if you shop the sales.
Climbing runner vs sling reddit I almost never climb with a gear sling, for this reason. I am a fan of Sterling power cord after only one climb. I've never seen anybody preclip gear to slings, bandolier style or with quick/alpine draws. ) 2x Edelrid Bulletproof HMS lockers (top roping on steel carabiners will save your rope from aluminum oxidation. I tend to prefer the friends for the reasons you've mentioned. ) Aug 18, 2019 · In general, climbing slings these days are made of two different types of fibers: Dyneema (or another type of Ultra-High-Molecular-Weight Polyethelene), and Nylon. Four months after purchasing AirTV-2 from Amazon, the unit died. . 12c-ish plateau. ps: i like to clip the excess sling on the strand i have to pull for the next rappel. the accessory cord is not climbing specific so it's rated for single line loads and lists the breaking Apr 25, 2012 · On slabs, the gear swings forward and gets in the way; on steeps, the gear sling swings back and feels like it is pulling you off. g. I still use the odd 120 cm nylon slings here and there, as it's a little bit dynamic and it's easier to untie knots. Usually around 16-20mm wide, nylon climbing slings are much bulkier (and more durable) than lightweight 6-14mm Dyneema slings. You can also use them on natural features like trees, threads, and chickenheads. Runners come in different sizes and are either secured in a loop via stitching or a knot. What you're doing is fine. The reality is, most of us use it on our draws, most of us use it in situations where falls aren't very common, and when dynema/dynex fails it's almost always when people girth two pieces of soft gear together, not from a crazy fall onto a sling. Since i don't really have a climbing shop in the neighbourhood. There is a third type of sling, made of cord similar to a climbing rope. In addition, the only setting I really need to be able to adjust the length of it is at belays on multipitches, and a clove hitched rope can be I added Sling TV as an addition to my YTTV package because of the YTTV ESPN/Disney debacle, although now resolved, and enjoy Sling TV very much. Don't bring a hammer as a one size fits all when you really want a screw driver. in practice this increases overall breaking strength by about 1. The discussion over nylon vs. Dynex is a brand name for “high-molecular-weight polyethylene” fiber, which is essentially the same exact material that makes up Dyneema or any of the non-Nylon choices in this review. So currently I use a pre built quad with a 120cm sling for sport climbing. This is probably mostly a climbing myth perpetuated by the article that's quoted in the above link As long as you leave your locker clipped into the sling and either locked back on your belay loop or clipped through the loop on your sling that you use to rap it should be safe because the sling can't unravel. Since you're asking about trad climbing, at some point in your career you're going to have to untie and thread your sling or use it for rap tat. Dyneema. Usually bring 8-10 alpine shoulder length draws, 3 double length slings with carabiners over the shoulder ( for extension, anchor building, slinging shit, and rap tether), and often like 4 regular lightweight sport draws. I have yet to discover a single downside compared to other systems. A benefit of slings is that they're cheaper than the PAS and they aren't single-purpose, like a PAS is. I have a double rack of cams, one set friends, one set C4s. Keep slack out of your static anchors. Tied to my harness, alpine butterfly in the middle, and 8 at the end. doubling the loop doubles the strength of the system. It has a recognizable aesthetic and is available in two different colors: a bright orange color that makes it easy to spot and distinguish, and a grey-rock colored version that blends more into the rock climbing wall environment. See full list on outdoorgearlab. The slings were like 6” in diameter and like 20’ long. Slings are static so a factor two is going to be disastrous. I like to use a runner-runner (aka sling-sling) to free up some biners and room on my harness. As an aside I don't think anyone outside of totally new climbers pay full price for slings. A harness + nylon sling + carabiner IMHO is super dangerous if you fall any distance before it catches: there's no give! In contrast, sport climbing involves falls onto "dynamic," i. I swear this is the first thing that anyone told me when I started climbing. I hope that helps anyone here or future google search users that land on this page. Of course, you wouldn't knot Dyneema webbing. If it was small diameter (1/4" Goldline) it was usually doubled. I can anchor with the 8, I setup my rappel on the butterfly, then remove the 8 and clip it back to my belay loop for shit an the nylon vs dynema thing isn't anything new. They allow two different options for extension, ~20cm or 60cm. How many slings with a single biner do y’all carry vs alpine draws? I’m tempted to cut down to 6 alpines to save a few oz on biners, as I don’t foresee placing more than 6 nuts per pitch, but I’m kind of nervous about not having enough. Pros. I need a rope for outdoor climbing on mostly lime stone, slab routes and 'stairs'. The only issue I can see with making your own is if you make a normal length sling, and double it so it's shorter as a quick-draw, there might be some hanky panky if you're trying to extend it to the regular length by unclipping the biner, clipping 1 strand and then pulling. Runners are most often used in traditional climbing (trad climbing) to lengthen anchors, prevent rope from dragging through rock and to keep gear from becoming Have fun and be safe my dude. This DMM testing in the link below shows failure of Dyeema in fall factor 1 & 2 and nylon performed better. 6 is a good start if you supplement with sport draws for long pitches. same as everything in climbing, the situation determines best practice. For situations that will put a lot of abuse on gear, like top rope anchors or multi-pitch anchors, I like cordelette or tied nylon runners. Those two, non-detachable low speed quads are the best season pass you'll ever own. Substitute the sling with a PAS system and it's even more practical. You will find that using a single sling for pas and for other purposes is not practical as you will spend unnecessary time tying and untying knots rather than climbing! And I second the advice to get a 120cm sling for general purpose (anchor building, alpine draw, etc. stretchy rope, that decelerates your over a much greater distance. Mostly because its easier to untie an overhand knot or a clove hitch with it, and if you fell on it while using as a PAS its much safer than dyneema (see this scary DMM video showing 2 foot direct falls on slings). The only reason I did that was I wanted belt loops to put more gear on; got tired of sashing all my gear on a sling around my shoulder. In a girth hitch they were like 300,000ish pounds. There are few things for which i am certain, but i'd bet money there isn't an all around better system. 1x Double Length (Blue) Nylon Sling, used mostly for small anchors. That's all been replaced by dynema slings. dynamic is a moot point considering you should never take a direct fall on either spectra or nylon slings. The slings doubled up are stronger yes. A sling can be used as an extended quickdraw to allow your rope to run straighter and decrease friction on wandering routes, or it can be used to set up an anchor. 1x Double Length (Blue) Nylon Sling, tied into a small quad for bolts. On longish trad routes or multipitch I usually do both and split it pretty even between over-the-shoulder nylon slings with a wiregate each and the rest as dyneema alpine draws. Crypto 1. The one HUGE exception to my gear sling hatred is for some squeezes and OWs, where it is advantages to have the gear on a sling on the outside-side of your body. When my dyneema draws became rather fuzzy from use my partners started complaining about them & I replaced them with nylon. Just canceled Sling TV last Sunday, St Patrick's day. I most commonly see folks use one of these at a crag with 2 anchor bolts; in this instance you clip a carabiner into 2 loops at the end of your PAS and clip each carabiner into an anchor bolt. The slings they had were these specialty endless slings made of Kevlar in some fancy higher denier nylon. 8. While we are not suppose to fall directly on Dyneema slings and these test are worst case, it seems like nylon is the better material, but people like Dyneema because it's l GM CLIMBING 16mm Nylon Sling Runner. And yes we are scared of falling. I find having something extra only for that purpose is unnecessary and just extra bulk. Been a long time since I used 60 cm nylon slings for the last time. Feb 11, 2016 · You’ve seen all the sling choices and aren’t sure: Dyneema, Spectra, Dynex or Nylon. ) nylon sling will last much longer and hold up to more wear and tear so Apr 24, 2025 · In a nutshell, the Black Diamond Nylon Runner is a climbing partner you didn’t know you needed until you start using it. In my opinion the extendable sling doesn't often offer enough extension to avoid using/carrying draws and n most cases, but will create an added margin of safety by allowing you to extend to avoid a feature that might cause the draw to unclip or lever over an edge. 1x 120cm nylon runner, often used for a clove v configuration or girthing a medium tree when I'm not worried about redundancy. 1x 120cm nylon runner tied into what I call a "baby quad". 240mm dyneema/nylon sling is also great, especially if you're not worried about complicated belay stations. Moved Permanently. 5x the single line rated load. They tend to be more versatile and durable than dyneema slings, and they are cheap enough to cut up or leave behind. If the bolts are connected with a chain (thus, redundant), I clip to the chain. e. By doubling the runner through the cam’s sling (fig. And keep in mind anyone on the internet with a strong opinion hasn't had enough experience yet. Also slings tend to last quite a long time - I have had mine for at least a thousand pitches of climbing and they are holding up. As others have said. Cheers. 1x Nut Tool (actually carry two, but I booty hard) 1x Rap Kit (ATC on AutoLocker, Hollowblock on non-locker) As others have said, if the quickdraws could bump against rock then could be worth a quad for top rope. Specifically, buying oz runner kits and splitting the silver biners that come with them into two draws using a spare runner and two orange hoodwires. Mar 13, 2024 · If you’re short on biners, try girth-hitching a cam’s sling (fig. My climbing partner and I have been climbing outdoors for a few months and we use two 18mm Metolius nylon slings or a 10mm Black Diamond Dynex runner to set our tope rope. Business, Economics, and Finance. ETA: I’m not concerned about climbing weight as much as overall pack weight for multi-day excursions. My BFF recommended Sling TV, so I jumped in. The rope length is also MUCH longer so 30% rope stretch gives a sizable catching distance. the knot might snag. Good job for using an autoblock/prussik. The GM Climbing 16mm Nylon Sling Runner is very thin and durable. Personally, I think the whole static vs. Aug 31, 2020 · Black Diamond Nylon Runner; Petzl ANNEAU Polyester Sling; How to Choose the Best Climbing Slings for Your Needs Nylon vs. GameStop Moderna Pfizer Johnson & Johnson AstraZeneca Walgreens Best Buy Novavax SpaceX Tesla. These uses tend to not be very rough on slings. Draws made from slings and biners (aka alpine draws) are nice for trad climbing when you're climbing multiple pitches below your limit. Posted by u/hnbike - 2 votes and 10 comments Jun 15, 2020 · Bottom Line: Nylon slings could be made as skinny, safer dynamically and less expensive than Dyneema. With this paycheck I’m going to buy some rope and bits to make anchors. Aug 9, 2016 · Rock Climbing: Runners A runner, which is also known as a sling, is a single loop of webbing. I personally dont like using sport draws for trad climbing so I carry 10 regular shoulder length slings and 2 double length slings on longer stuff, all racked with 2 carabiners on my harness. I have a big background in backpacking and long hikes. 5, but don’t do this with a wired nut; the cinching action of the girth-hitch can cut the sling in a fall). Switching from DirecTV to Sling, we saved $60 a month. The melting temperature doesn't really matter either - I don't think there's been a single documented case of melted slings in alpine draws during proper use. the single strand now has to take half the shared load. the rope should always be taking the brunt of the force out of a fall, slings just transfer the force. 6 million pounds. You can either cut up your cordelette, cut up one of your nice expensive Dyneema slings or take my sage advice about carrying at least one tied runner. Therefore since the protection will pull out at a force far below the breaking strength of your sling, the sling will NEVER feel enough force to snap. best to gain experience using slings, cord, rope and develop a feel for what works best for YOU in THAT situation. a basic knot will reduce the strength of the rope by ~50% as a general guideline. Overview: Nylon vs Dyneema . I tied it a bit different with webbing, and it was always quite comfortable. I still usually have the extra biners racked as a football at the back of my harness in case I need them, but usually rack 4 or 5 slings on the sling (as shown in the video), maybe more if I am expecting a pitch with slung chickenheads for pro. NYLON. Pick just the extension you need and no more. Personally, I have a 7mm, 6mm, and 240mm sling in my closet since I like variety and they're inexpensive as far as trad climbing gear goes. As far as brands go, I absolutely recommend the mammut dyneema slings. Oct 29, 2023 · Edelird 16mm 240cm sling (really any fat 240cm sling, or 2x 120cm slings could work too. It's difficult to go and check the ropes out in person so i'm hoping to get some advice here. This post dives quickly into the pro’s and con’s along with the best uses and the rest of the post is dedicated to explaining exactly why we’ve labeled them as such. As others have stated, nothing wrong with some QuickDraws on a trad route (maybe a nut is placed at a crux and you aren’t worried about it walking and it makes you feel better about fall potential; maybe the route is mixed and you want to clip the bolt with a QuickDraw; maybe it’s Reddit's OG off-piste sub for all things backcountry skiing/splitboarding. Equalization is a myth - especially dynamic rated strength is not the same concept as durability in an anchor, the most important aspect is not a single component's rated strength. In short, nylon is heavier and stretchier, while dyneema slings are lighter, less absorbent, and more slippery. So, it looks as though Sling TV will be a keeper for me. A few slings are also made of a blend between the two types of fibers. The home of Climbing on reddit. com I use double length nylon sling to extend rappel or make a PAS for cleaning. Unless you really fuck something up any stretch in the anchor should be negligible compared to the stretch in the rope (i. I was freaked out after watching the video, Break Nylon & Dyneema Slings , and I was wondering if you guys could provide me your thoughts about the safety of our Dynex runner. I still carry at least one tied double length runner because it's easy to untie and thread/use for rap tat. Most common applications are alpine draws, slinging e. No real reason, just the nylon slings were really cheap & the weight and bulkiness doesn't bother me (except if you use them with those small ultra-light 'biners but I hate those things I tend to use slings or cord when leading in blocks and use the rope when swinging leads. I’m looking into getting into more alpine climbing so I was wondering what’s best for me moving on. Though it can be made a number of ways, a sling (also known as a runner) is typically created by sewing a webbing section into a loop. In a basket hitch, the rated working load was like 1. ) 2x Edelrid Pure Screw lockers (to clip to the bolts, but really any will do) Mammut is a high quality brand and their gear is good, i find some features aren't well thought out, a glaring example being the bum zips on the bibs being a multi step operation to open and close and not possible in a harness. Context is everything. Personally I think the stretch in Nylon is a bit of a red herring. Rope is dynamic but a factor two on a short length is still going to be uncomfortable. rated strength is NOT even close to a direct measure of safety, since an anchor is a system and no single component should ever be subjected to the breaking strength of a cord. Called Sling tech support and was on hold for >3 hours! Just starting outdoor climbing. cheaper; colorful Apr 12, 2019 · The Black Diamond Dynex Sewn Runner is one of the highest scoring, and most economical, slings in this comparative review. 1x 240cm nylon runner that is rarely used, only for the biggest trees (and often as a basket hitch) or when the three pieces are in wildly different spots. TL;DR: If you like Oz carabiners the runner sets are a great deal. 5 and the 9. Yeah, this is probably the best way. It may adjust when being weighted though. But the weakest point in your safety system will fail first. The document has moved here. This makes them the best choice for situations such as extending a belay device , replacing anchor webbing or attaching yourself to an anchor before abseiling . Its stronger to connect 2 slings with a carabiner or use a long sling, but it doesn't strike me as that silly of a thing to do as long as you know the outcome. I have just in the past year started dedicated training in an attempt to breakthrough a v6-7, 5. 1x Quad Length (Grey) Nylon Sling, used mostly for basket hitches on trees. but on the whole is a very good brand, just gotta check if the specific piece is fit for your purpose. The weakest link is the protection(Cam, nut, whatever) you put into the wall. As far as streaming goes, it has been doing relatively well without buffering and PQ issues over these 2 weeks. rock horns for protection, or to connect you to an anchor. Jul 2, 2018 · I have been using the clove hitch with a Dyneema sling (Clove Hitch Trad Anchor) to build my anchors, but after watching the DMM Video(DMM Sling test) of them breaking slings, with the knotted Dyneema breaking at way less than the knotted Nylon sling, I am considering changing to the Nylon 240cm sling. Think I'm the only one that's gone back to nylon. Nonetheless, make sure to check out our Stories and Guide and other reliable, trustworthy sources to gain a deeper understanding of how slings work. Climbing Slings. 3M subscribers in the climbing community. I personally use 1. dyneema slings is a long one and worth reading up on. What is better static rope? Or slings? I was going to buy 2x 120cm slings and maybe like 6m of static rope for when I need a bit more? Is 6m enough? Should I buy more? Or 2 lots of static rope? Longer slings? More selection? For threading through an anchor I usually use 2 quickdraws, or one girth-hitched long sling and a quickdraw. There's a decent deal on the mammut crag classic but i'm torn between the 9. You can usually get them 40% off if you shop the sales. It’s reliable, strong, and surprisingly stylish (at least by climbing standards). if it is, you did something else very wrong. It’s better to have more gear than you need if you’re new to the trad game. At ~5 bucks a sling you can get 10 for 50 and be set for a normal rack. Just totally absurd and your video reminded me of those Photos in some of my old climbing books show Brit climbers using tied cordage for extenders. 3, this works for wires, too) you’ll shorten the extension. So, if you’re thinking of adding something rugged to your kit, go ahead and give it a whirl. Sling Length Now that you’ve gotten a first insight into the wonderous world of slings, you’ll probably find it a lot easier to choose the perfect slings and runners for your favorite climbing activity. Really any steel lockers will do just fine here. Ok so I have been climbing for a little over 5 years, spending most of my time sport and trad climbing with small bits of bouldering scattered in here and there. 5 meter rope tether. But you get what you pay for. ryvjigimfvkemvtuxkgavjcuknpyudzqabraqcxmtmvdpiukuu