Ifsc rules bolt holes pdf. doc - Free download as PDF File (.

Ifsc rules bolt holes pdf doc - Free download as PDF File (. Part I – Artificial structure – Official Speed Walls 2 1. The IFSC Disciplinary Rules establish a comprehensive framework to maintain the integrity, fairness, and professionalism of Sport Climbing competitions governed by the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC). At the gym you can have your own way of doing it, no one gets to prescribe that to you, but they’re generally prohibited wherever there are rules. ) SPEED LICENCE RULES 2. But not on volumes. Introduction The current document is an annex of the IFSC Hosting Agreement and includes a list of materials which should be available during the entire routesetting and competition period. The regulations governing the sport, including those implementing these rules, may be amended more frequently as My current understanding of the rules are: Wall: no fingers in bolt holes Volumes: no fingers in bolt holes, screw holes are fair game Holds: both bolt and screw holes are fair game (backed up by the 2016 manual but contradicted by the German competition) The document summarizes the rules for international sport climbing competitions in 2016. 15. 2 Bolts Subjected to Shear, 71 4. 3 Bolts Subjected to Combined Tension and Shear, 71 5. Bolt holes (in holds and volumes) are always on, and are sometimes a really interesting part of a problem. However, I’ll explain the official IFSC rules regarding bolt holes. 8 2 25 3 3. During the prefab of a flange to for example a elbow, the position of the bolt holes are of particular importance. (IFSC Rules Art. The IFSC publishes the competition rules in English. pdf), Text File (. Maybe you have ever seen the following on a drawing. IFSC-Rules_2015_V1. ifsc climbing world cup prague 2025: what the athletes said 06 june 2025. SPEED LICENCE RULES 2. anchor bolts may be placed in 1/2 in. 10 Basis for Design Recommendations, 70 4. François Leonardon Chair - IFSC Rules Commission Stanley Yeo Chair - IFSC Judges Commission Maybe your area is a special case, but everywhere I've been setters tend to set with the assumption people climb along rules similar to IFSC rules. 1 Wall specifications 2 1. Increased standard bolt hole diameter and slot widths for bolts 1-in. iv. 1) Many IFSC Rules changes introduced earlier in 2022 are also adopted in this Rulebook: This document is an annex to the IFSC Hosting Agreement and outlines key considerations for routesetting operations and a list of materials required to be available during the entire routesetting and competition period. 1): /S = bolt designed assuming the snug tight condition /TB = bolt designed assuming the bolt is tensioned and resists loads at the ultimate limit state by bearing of the bolt on the connected plies iv) any bolt hanger fixed to the Climbing Surface; or v) any Protection Point or the climbing rope; International Level Athletes means, for the purposes of the IFSC Anti-Doping Rules, any competitors selected to be part of the Testing Pool and Registered Testing Pool (as these are defined within the IFSC Anti-Doping Rules) and in addition: IFSC Speed World Record Check IFSC Speed World Record Check a. The document outlines specifications for official IFSC speed walls, including wall dimensions, panel specifications, route plans, and the homologation process. Definitely means a send wouldn't 'count' in a technical sense. For instance, oversized holes should be used only in connections where slippage is not a critical concern. Bent-bar anchor bolts must meet the material requirements of Standard Specification for Carbon Structural Steel, ASTM A36/A36M (ref. Sep 29, 2024 · Standard Holes: These are the most common and must be 2 mm larger than the bolt diameter. This document is an annex to the IFSC Hosting Agreement and outlines key considerations for routesetting operations and a list of materials required to be available during the entire routesetting and competition period. 8 Corrosion and Embrittlement, 66 4. 1). If you're referring to simply climbing the problems at your gym - do what you want. 9 Effect of Nut Strength, 69 4. Date Title View Download; 31/03/2021: International Financial Services Centres Authority (Finance Company) Regulations, 2021: 31/03/2021: International Financial Services Centres Authority (Banking) (Amendment) Regulations, 2021 IFSC Rules 2021 Category means a group of competitors within one specific Discipline, gender and age group; Championship refers to the highest tier individual event(s) authorised by the IFSC (or a subordinate continental council of the IFSC) in each of the Boulder, Combined, Lead and Speed Disciplines, open to competitors either: 13. The athlete who solves the most problems in the lowest number of attempts wins. Oversized Holes: Used when higher tolerances are needed, these can be larger but must comply with specific guidelines. tl;dr: Yes. 1. 2. It should be always read in conjunction with the IFSC Rules, IFSC Hosting Agreement, and the annex Wall and Venue Requirements. It outlines the governance structure of the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC), including its responsibilities for overseeing international competitions. These Classification Rules must be read and applied in conjunction with IFSC Rules and all other applicable rules of the IFSC. All climbing walls must comply with the European Standards (EN 12572-1 / EN 12572-2 / EN 12572-3) as specified in the IFSC Rules and the IFSC Speed License Rules. 7) (b) Boulder (which should be held in the period March to July) (IFSC Rules Art. IFSC rules are against it. 7. The bolt holes are be similar divided over the diameter of the bolt circle, and the number is always an even number (4, 8, 12, 16 etc. Good setters put up routes with the bolt holes in mind. It's only considered poor form by indoor climbers who don't know better. ). Among many, two of the mandatory conditions are: SPEED LICENCE RULES SUMMARY 1. EUROCODE EDITION. 2). d) Uses with their hands any holes provided for the placement of bolt-on holds , excluding any such hole on a bolt-on hold; You can use the drill holes (but not the bolt-on holes of volumes) (according IFSC rules), but it's considered cheating, but not using that to your advantage in a competition is not smart ;). Placement of Anchor Bolts Provision TMS 402 Ref. (At the time this USA Climbing document was published, the IFSC Speed License Rules were available here. 9); 2. That means the empty t-nut holes in the wall are not part of the problem, since it's just impossible to cover hundreds of them for a single boulder. 14. 4. Placed in grout; Exception: 1/4 in. 8 / 2. 6 Galvanized Bolts and Nuts, 63 4. According to 2021 International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) rules, the correct way to start a bouldering problem is when a climber “achieves a stable, controlled position with both hands and both feet on the starting holds without controlling or using any other artificial holds or structures”. Check with your local gym regarding this rule because they can be different. Bolt Hole Orientation. Scribd is the world's largest social reading and publishing site. Maybe it's different in other gyms, but my gym sets very speicifically. • Headed anchors include conventional square head or hexhead threaded bolts, but also include plate anchors (where a steel plate is welded to the end of the bolt). ARRC Regs Book 2024 Edition2 Compressed - Free download as PDF File (. But at the same time, bolt holes in the wall are definitely out. The document outlines minimum specifications for climbing walls and surrounding areas for IFSC competitions. 5 5 6 7 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22 24 27 30 33 36 39 1. Part II – IFSC Recognised Speed Wall Manufacturers and IFSC competitions 2. mixed emotions for ondra, but safely through to semi-finals 06 june 2025. It also outlines the rules for each climbing discipline (Lead, Boulder, Speed), event types (World Cups, World Championships, Youth Worlds), and annexes with additional details. Anchor bolts in drilled holes of face shell permitted to contact face shell Clear distance between bolts ≤ max{d is : 1821- 1987 is0 273 - 1979 2 dimensions 1 1. Introduction With the present document, the International Federation of Sport Climbing clarifies the Speed World Record Check procedures. Part II – Certified IFSC Speed Wall Manufacturers and IFSC competitions 13 HANDBOOK OF STRUCTURAL STEELWORK. This document contains the rules for international climbing competitions organized by the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC). Bolt holes, screw holes, etc: T-Nuts are out (the holes on walls and volumes) for your hands (you can jam your toes in them though which is super useful for getting a bit of extra purchase when standing on a volume). International Level Athletes means, for the purposes of the IFSC Anti-Doping Rules, any competitors selected to be part of the Testing Pool and Registered Testing Pool (as these are defined within the IFSC Anti-Doping Rules) and in addition: a) any International Licence Holder competing in the Open Sport Class and ranked within 15th or iv) any bolt hanger fixed to the Climbing Surface; or v) any Protection Point or the climbing rope; International Level Athletes means, for the purposes of the IFSC Anti-Doping Rules, any competitors selected to be part of the Testing Pool and Registered Testing Pool (as these are defined within the IFSC Anti-Doping Rules) and in addition: iv) any bolt hanger fixed to the Climbing Surface; or v) any Protection Point or the climbing rope; International Level Athletes means, for the purposes of the IFSC Anti-Doping Rules, any competitors selected to be part of the Testing Pool and Registered Testing Pool (as these are defined within the IFSC Anti-Doping Rules) and in addition: Rules 6. The homologation process inspects panel 2023_IFSC_Rules_112 - Free download as PDF File (. 4 DATE June 2020 DISTRIBUTION IFSC Member Federations IFSC Technical Commissions IFSC Continental Councils IFSC Executive Board Members Event Organisers ISSUED TO National Federations PREPARED BY IFSC 2020 Rules Commission Authors Tim Hatch, François Leonardon 13. The document should be always read in conjunction with the IFSC Rules, IFSC It's considered poor form to use bolt holes in my experience, but if that tiny bolt hole thumb catch is the only thing keeping me under that slimy mega sloper on that pink one in the corner you know I'm probably gonna use it. Headed anchor bolts The IFSC was founded in Frankfurt on 27 January 2007 by 57 member federations as a continuation of the International Council for Competition Climbing , which had been in existence from 1997 to 2007 under the governance of the Union Internationale des Associations d'Alpinisme (UIAA). 9), and all USA Climbing Ranking systems now use the IFSC's 1000-point ranking points table (13. b / 7. b about appeals are very clear: an appeal will be made by the relevant competitor only when no team official from the relevant team is registered for the competition. It shall be read solely in conjunction with the 2023 IFSC Rules. 7 Use of Washers, 65 4. 1. in diameter and greater (Table 3. 10. 2 Walls & Route Plans 4 1. An overhead roof is also required to The document provides the rules for climbing competitions in 2022. An explosive performance on routes (problems) with a maximum height of 4 metres and safety mats below. Updated to be in line with IFSC 2016 v2. 8); (c) Speed (IFSC Rules Art. Part II – Certified IFSC Speed Wall Manufacturers and IFSC competitions 2. These Classification Rules apply to all Athletes and Athlete Support Personnel who hold a license with the IFSC, and/or participate in any Events or Competitions organised, authorised or recognised by the IFSC. 1 Minimum Bolt Pretension moved to Table 5. The official rules state that you can grab the holes on climbing holds but not on the wall. The rules are intended to govern international climbing events in 2022 that are sanctioned by the International Federation of Sep 23, 2020 · • an increase in STD bolt hole diameter and SSL and LSL slot width for bolts 1 inch diameter and above, • recognition of the new ASTM F3125 standard, which consolidates and replaces ASTM A325, A325M, A490, A490M, F1852 and F2280, • increased minimum bolt pretensions for Grade A325 bolts of 1-1/8 inch diameter and greater, which the masonry. It's all about having fun. 2. ” And since volumes are considered extensions of the wall you may not use the bolt holes/tnut holes on volumes. 5 4 4. It also outlines competition formats and rules for specific disciplines like lead, boulder, and speed climbing. Foundation On February 12th, 2010, the IOC gave definitive recognition to the IFSC, officially welcoming Sport Climbing as part of the Olympic Family. 5 Reuse of High-Strength Bolts, 62 4. In principle, the company must prioritize the safety of the athletes who will climb on the walls and the IFSC Officials and operational staff who are present around the FOP. It covers governance topics like membership federations and disciplinary procedures. 2 Tool measurement: IFSC Speed Square specification 11 2. mortar joints. If someone is stoked about doing it, props. Among many, two of the mandatory conditions are: Bolt holes (the big holes in the wall) are always off. diameter (Table 5. 2 The IFSC is recognised by the International Olympic Committee (IOC) and is member of the Google's service, offered free of charge, instantly translates words, phrases, and web pages between English and over 100 other languages. . Fine grout: 1/4 in. Sep 2, 2020 · USA Climbing Official website of the International Federation of Sport Climbing. 13. It then details the specific rules for the different climbing disciplines - lead, bouldering, speed, team speed - and major competitions iv) any bolt hanger fixed to the Climbing Surface; or v) any Protection Point or the climbing rope; International Level Athletes means, for the purposes of the IFSC Anti-Doping Rules, any competitors selected to be part of the Testing Pool and Registered Testing Pool (as these are defined within the IFSC Anti-Doping Rules) and in addition: May 14, 2024 · Bolt holes. 6). prague 2025. The IFSC rules define all bolt holes, whether on the climbing surface (wall, volumes) or structures (holds) as illegal aid. now its a bit ambiguous imho as holds were either "controlled" or "used" to ascertain the competitors score. Key requirements include wall heights of 15m, panel heights and widths of 1500mm each, an overhang of 5 degrees, and precise distances between holds of 125mm vertically and horizontally. Uses with their hands any holes provided for the placement of bolt-on holds , excluding any such hole on a bolt-on hold. Purposefully eliminating elements of holds that are part of the route is just tough-guy stuff. 2 1. If some cares enough to try to tell you that "you started it wrong" because you pressed against the wall, ignore them, they suck. 1 The International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) is the international federation responsible for all aspects of international competition climbing and is the final authority for all matters concerning international competition climbing. At present, it is not an official document and should be considered as a set of guidelines rather than a set of rules. 7 1. org website. Revised values for pre-installation verification testing and for pretension for Group 120 bolts larger than 1 in. c / 8. No bolt hole cover: bolt hole is in. National federations which produce a translated version of the rules are invited to send a copy to the IFSC, clearly stating on the front cover that it is their official translation, so it may be posted on the IFSC Jan 6, 2020 · The Standards are based on, and informed by, the IFSC Speed Climbing standards as outlined in the IFSC Speed License Rules document available on the ifsc-climbing. 3 Speed wall 15 m homologation – visit procedure 8 1. 4 1,6 1. Mar 10, 2021 · In the case of steel-to-steel connections, the parts are made in a shop under good quality control, so standard holes (bolt diameter plus 1/16″), oversized holes (bolt diameter plus 3/16″), and short and long-slotted holes can be used quite successfully. 6. The first IFSC Paraclimbing Cup Series was organised, with events in Ekaterinburg, (RUS), Val Daone (ITA) and Chiba (JPN). 2 rule updates NOTE: this is not the definitive rules –the IFSC rules should be read for the definitive rules, this is a summarized version of the rules suitable for revision and refresher training 2019 –Update for hoping at start interpretation 2020 - Added Bouldering section /S, /TB, /TF: designator indicating the design basis for a bolt (from AS 4100 Table 9. The wall panels must meet certain quality, friction, and coloration standards. 1 Bolts Subjected to Tension, 70 4. This document should be always read in conjunction with IFSC Rules of the relevant year, displayed here. First text page_Layout 1 04/10/2013 14:26 Page 1 Official website of the International Federation of Sport Climbing. May 24, 2021 · i had a chat with Qwerty about this, and note the IFSC rules have changed in the last couple of years. It's unrealistic for setters to block every single bolt hole, but they should be considered part of a flat surface and not used. It used to be ganz verboten for hands - it wouldnt be a good thing to fall off with a finger in a bolt hole - but was ok for feet. If the setters truly didn’t want you to use them, they would be blocked. Bolt holes and screw holes (the ones in the actual holds) are allowed to be used, the setters can block them if you want. RULES 2020 VERSION No 1. Table 8. 4 Each EYC competition should not last longer than two (2) days, during weekends and preferably during holiday periods: (a) whenever possible, EYC competitions should be completed in one and a half days and end The document presents rules for climbing competitions in 2022. Oct 1, 2022 · In addition, IFSC's Boulder Flash format is added for potential use at Boulder Youth National Championships (8. There have been climbs there where the bolt hole was part of the beta shrug. Thickness of grout between masonry unit and anchor bolt Coarse grout: 1/2 in. Find events calendar, all past and future results, ranking, IFSC news, photos, videos. attention to the rules where they concern the safety of the competition and participants, both on and off the Field of Play. Pretty sure that IFSC rules allow you to touch the wall while establishing yourself in the starting position. 2 in design. It covers governance topics like member federations, disciplinary procedures, and anti-doping. txt) or read online for free. These rules outline the procedure for addressing disciplinary matters involving athletes, Officials, National 1. 3. 1 IFSC competitions and Speed World Record Check (competition check) IFSC rules specify the conditions to approve a speed world record on IFSC competitions. It provides specifications for the height, width, profiles, and other technical requirements for lead walls, boulder walls, warm up walls, speed walls, and other elements. IFSC Routesetters Checklist IFSC ROUTESETTERS CHECKLIST IFSC Event 1. CHANGES TO THE RULES The IFSC plans to publish the competition rules in stable form on a quadrennial basis. Bolt hole is covered: good luck. mxjy klwrc hzpwofp zyhymhw eih wnw agumgpo lnrpd gzf gaxrf