Quad anchor vs sliding x reddit. 16K subscribers in the tradclimbing community.

Quad anchor vs sliding x reddit A sliding X with limiter knots is fine. Here, you need to double your cordellete so that it has four equal strands of length. 4M subscribers in the climbing community. To my knowledge, no one make 5. It's better to understand the whys of anchor building rather than the hows. Anyone with some reasonable climbing experience is immediately aware of how overkill the quad-anchor fervor is - especially for top-rope applications. Contrary to the sliding-X method, this method is more complex to make. YY Vertical Yeah this isn’t really any safer than a plain sliding x because the knots aren’t limiting extension, and is actually weaker because of the knots in the material. I've favoured 1-hand vs 2-hand portable hangboards, and leant towards designs that I think will be the most stable in terms of tilt when lifting. After reading this article, I am seriously thinking about changing to the Quad anchor, See full list on rei. Derek DeBruin . For a more long term anchor you want locking biners and multiple points for tieing people in, hanging gear/rope, and general versatility. The pre-equalized will be your bread and butter because it's so fast to set up, but I've had times where I brought too short a cordellete for an ERNEST anchor so Dynamic equalization is a fool's errand. And yes we are scared of falling. It’s also worth noting that anchor sides with two legs will behave as stationary anchors and will not adjust to changes in direction of pull. I usually use a few draws at the top for sport but a pre tied quad is very fast. An additional and in my opinion slightly better anchor for 2 bolts is the quad. If you have any recommendations for any other types of sliding X a 1. This setup is only for 2 anchor points. Setting up anchors isn't what takes time in multipitch. Mar 13, 2016 · I've never liked the 'Pre Equalized Anchor; AKA Cord-o-lette, instead opting for a version of the two-point self-equalizing, sliding X anchor backed up with a third independent anchor using sewn spectra slings. It really doesn't work IRL due to clutch effect (except maybe with a slippery quad and anodized carabiners). Posted by u/trollhawk - 2 votes and 23 comments I have been climbing for some time and am looking to add some more equipment to my slowly growing arsenal but haven't been able to find what I'm looking for online. 5 is a "high-tech" core, which would bring the strength up considerably. This has generally been sufficient for the multi-pitch routes I've done. Crypto I like to use a cordalette and build an anchor with 3-4 pieces and a big pre-equalized master point. 19K subscribers in the Slackline community. For single pitch sport, I usually do a sliding x on a dyneema sling with 3 lockers. Posted by u/[Deleted Account] - 1 vote and 23 comments "We did a lot of testing with Sterling and found that binding was a bigger factor than first suspected, especially with sliding X, where a sling is basically hitched around the biner, less so on somethng like a quad, where anchor point biners are clipped though a comparatively wide loop. Jul 11, 2016 · BoulderCharles wrote:The quad is great for bolted belays as it is fast, allows for some movement of the master point, and gives you more room in the master point. There is a way to set you anchor after a lead as a quad anchor and then use the quad as a tether when you clean, but this can sometimes lead to difficult positions compared to a traditional Personal anchor system. You can use opposing quick draws or sliding-x with a locker at the mastermind if it's a quick follow on single pitch. This can shock-load the remaining piece(s). ‍ 1. A knotted sling will still hold 15+ kN. Business, Economics, and Finance. Oct 7, 2016 · I prefer master point anchors because they are much quicker to tie than a quad. If the pieces are far from each other, I might build a mini anchor (sliding X) on 2 of the pieces w/ a double length sling to extend them a bit. The quad uses up an awful lot of cord unnecessarily so simply tying another type of anchor will allow you to extend it easily. Hi all, So me and my partners are about to head on our first major multipitch adventure--El Potrero Chico!--and I'm sifting through some approaches… It's the old adage about giving a man a fish, or teaching a man to fish. BFC Grippul 2. Welcome to /r/slackline! Post pictures, stories, new locations, beginner guides… 26 votes, 28 comments. The sliding X anchor does not satisfy the No Extension part of the SERENE anchor test. Overall, use your best judgement in creating an anchor and different scenarios will call for different anchors. The Quad is my preferred TR anchor personally as it's super fast, bomber and you can carry it premade from route to route but it's all personal preference and as long as you are using SERENE/ERNEST you should be fine. It doesn't self equalise, however this is not a big deal as you just set it up to take load in the appropriate direction (take both strands, pull in direction you will load the knot, pinch 4-6 inches above the knot and then tie it). 24 votes, 10 comments. Jun 7, 2024 · Some people think this is called the quad anchor because it uses a “quad” length sling, or 240 cm. Posted by u/[Deleted Account] - No votes and 19 comments But as with everything anchor-related, it depends. Thread the cord directly trough the pitons/what ever and in case one blows, the knot might slip(and even absorb energy while doing so), but the chance of the piece pulling through the knot is quite low. IMO having a permanent cordelette quad is as important to a rack as a set of cams. As for a TR anchor, I'd worry with the use of non locking carabiners. You can use this anchor for basically anything now without having to worry each climb. I can set up a fully equalized dynamic anchor that fails at over 22kn (according to Black Diamond's lab) in under a minute. . Overhand masterpoint or an equalette are both good solutions. Best Situation To Use The Quad Anchor To equalize two bomber anchor points such as a two-bolt anchor. A 240 cm sling can be handy for many kinds of anchor building, especially for equalizing three points of protection, orslinging around a tree. But for side by side bolts like this, many people find it’s too long, a bit bulky, and hard to rack. This is a fantastic choice at the summit of a sports climb where there are two bolts side by side. There's a community for whatever you're interested in on Reddit. Do any of you guys double… "We did a lot of testing with Sterling and found that binding was a bigger factor than first suspected, especially with sliding X, where a sling is basically hitched around the biner, less so on somethng like a quad, where anchor point biners are clipped though a comparatively wide loopMost of the elaborate rigging systems are of little use A sliding X rigged from a single 60 cm will have just as much reach as a quad build from a 120 cm sling, and a sliding X 120cm will give you more reach than any of the previously mentioned options. the no extension thing is not that important as you have 60m of stretchy rope out there so you are not really "shock loading" the anchor. - Since the quad needs to be doubled up, it is difficult to equalize anchors where the placements are far apart. For gear anchors, the quad will be tricky as you usually have 3 pieces in your anchor (meaning you have to tie two pieces of protection together to end up with two clip-in points for your quad). This can be solved by adding "limiter knots" approximately 6" from either side of the sliding X's main point. The only place o can see their functionality is in multipitch sport where you want a sound anchor to hang and belay off of. As stated above, they generally don’t distribute the load equally , although research performed by Evans demonstrates that under a dynamic load, they distribute the load better than so called “pre 2) It can be difficult to clip another carabiner into the main point of a sliding-X when it is weighted. In my own climbing, I rarely get to use bolted anchors (barring the local crags) so I build anchors off of trees, boulders, and/or gear. 2 quickdraws are fine as a very short term anchor, like if you are rapping a multipitch or flying up an easy sport climb and swapping leads. The classic sliding- x system fails to create a fully redundant anchor as cutting the rigging material (such as from rockfall) in one location causes complete anchor failure. Moved Permanently. However, with those materials, when they're knotted they lose 50% of their strength, vs 20-30% for nylon. Jun 22, 2021 · Basically saying that 1 in a million scenarios will cause a quad to fail, but fail to acknowledge that there are plenty of 1 in a million scenarios that cause any other anchor to fail as well. For your personal anchor, a factor 2 fall (you're standing above where you're clipped as far as your PAS can reach then fall) can go up to 17 kN, meaning serious risk of breaking your personal anchor. Quad Anchors: Slings vs Cords I use a long ass sling and keep it racked as a quad on my harness (my home crag offers a lot of options from multi pitch to TR in a given day), but does anyone like 7mm better as far a keeping a dedicated quad racked? Reddit is a network of communities where people can dive into their interests, hobbies and passions. Make sure the second knows how to safely clean your anchor and transition to the permanent anchor BEFORE they leave the ground. com The sliding x with limiter knots allows for equalization, while the figure 8 anchor is pre equalized when you can accurately judge where the second climber is coming up from, as long as the route doesn’t wander. It's dealing with the rope, especially if you aren't switching leads. They prevent the anchor from a large extension if one of the anchor points fail. 3M subscribers in the climbing community. This anchor utilizes the "Sliding X" and knots on either side to eliminate extensions. However, a quad makes sense to some people when every anchor is bolted, because you can pre-tie the quad and leave it tied all day. These are the products I think seem to be the best options on the market right now. You MIGHT run into odd scenarios where you can't use the quad just because of positioning or whatever. I have included 2 Overhand Knots in this method to act as limiter knots. A relatively common debate among certain segments of recreational climbers, both in-person and online, is the value of sliding rigging systems for climbing anchors. The biggest standout is he does say that no amount of clever rigging can really make up for weak primary placements, which is the takeaway from the newer research as well. And, in this case, op can ditch 2 whole dogbones and non lockers, put two non lockers on the bolts (these can be lockers or just one can or niether) clip the sling (paying attention so the stitching is out of the way (I clove hitch the stitching to the The quad, or a sliding X with limiter knots, does have some shock load on one piece, but nowhere near the amount of force that it would without the limiter knots, and generally well within acceptable limits as long as the limiter knots are reasonably close to the power point. Like the sliding magic X, or a pre-equalized anchor with a master point, or even the equalette can be useful sometimes. I was taught to clip personal anchor into one or both of the bolts (or clove hitch for second if it works better). That anchor is fine. 1. Some of the anchors in your photos are absolutely overly complicated. - The quad will extend slightly should either anchor point fail. It's just good to know different ones for different situations. 2021 . Consequently, a sliding-x is commonly built with "limiter knots" which achieve redundancy while minimizing the Rather than using a sliding X or a Quad I would tie an overhand knot at the masterpoint. Lattice Mini Bar. the reason you want to have the middle loops a decent size is so your anchor equalizes and by shortening the distance between the knots you shorten the direction of pull degrees I was practicing my sliding x's and wondered if there were any cons to doubling it up, as in clipping into two sliding x's. Agreed. GameStop Moderna Pfizer Johnson & Johnson AstraZeneca Walgreens Best Buy Novavax SpaceX Tesla. When I climb multi-pitch with bolted anchors, like in Squamish (on some routes) and elsewhere, I use the tied sliding x exclusively, and pre-tie the anchor. Clip the sling into two bolts. Jan 1, 2015 · When you need an anchor that allows for a change of direction in the climb, while remaining equalized. Would be fine for two bomber bolts (nothing else) but save yourself untying the knots after they’re weighted and just use the sliding x, or better yet two draws. This is a s elf-equalization anchor. Quads and Fixed Leg Systems. The main point will still be able to self equalize by sliding and, should one of the two points of protection pull, the remaining point of protection Business, Economics, and Finance. I have been using the "sliding X" and "equalette" anchor systems but am looking to invest in a cordelette to build a quad anchor with for extended periods of top roping. Posted by u/sodathief - No votes and 11 comments A rope is going to reduce pretty much any fall to 5-7 kN. Pull the two loops downward between the bolts and in the intended direction of pull (direction of the climber). But yeah, sliding X's are right out :P Realistically anymore I only use dynamically-equalized anchors in a two-bolt quad at a sport crag. Things then get even more complicated when you use a quad to create a 3-point anchor, as the load is split not once but adjust as load to the anchor changes direction (see Figure 1). 16K subscribers in the tradclimbing community. Or maybe the short length of the quickdraws cause your rope to rub against the rock in a bad way. 5mm is an acceptable cord for anchor building, the strength and numbers just isn't there. If you must do so, make sure you have clipped the carabiner through the sling in exactly the same way as the original carabiner. While a quad can split a load fairly evenly between two arms, a sliding X might only achieve a 70/30 split since the twist in the sling at the master point creates friction which puts most of the load on one of the two arms. A much better alternative is to use the quad anchor. The sliding X had been shown to not dynamically equalize since sometime in the 1980s. A place for discussion, debate, and inspiration regarding traditional climbing, often referred to as… 1. The document has moved here. Crypto Feb 2, 2025 · Quad Anchor Method. Step By Step Guide To Set Up Top Rope Anchors With Sliding X . Digit V-Mobs. Tension The Block 2. Multipitch = quad with a quad length dyneema sling and more biners. 61 votes, 22 comments. Sometimes the routes wanders left and right a lot and you would want something self equalizing, like a sliding X with limiter knots. Using the Sliding X without limiter knots is no The Quad Is Awesome/Terrible: Examining the Applicability of Sliding Anchor Rigging Methods . If you're looking for a do it all, super safe sport/top rope anchor, then go for the quad anchor. I don't believe that 5. Using the quad as a cookie-cutter solution to anchoring is a classic example of failing to understand the relative sources of risk in climbing. The home of Climbing on reddit. The phrase "good enough" should be reserved for alpine/aid/etc. The older style of belaying off the harness has the leader clipping a piece of the anchor to protect against a factor 2 fall, which could be near the maximum impact force of the rope (8-9kN), means that the clipped piece of the anchor is acting as a 2:1 pulley and can actually feel more force (1 & 2/3 maximum impact force due to frictional Number of Anchor Points (applies to Sliding Anchors) A sliding anchor with three points doesn’t even theoretically distribute load equally as demonstrated in the image below. 15 votes, 64 comments. Edit: Can the anonymous AMGA Safety Captains explain the votes? Edit 2: This is if there is no sharp rock in the vicinity, and I use newer gear. Lattice Quad Block. In short, anchors such as the Quad and the Sliding-X are frequently referred to as “self-equalizing” anchors, which is not entirely accurate. In this case, I would make an anchor with slings to extend it. The downside to the sliding X is that it is not as strong as a quad (a single dyneema is significantly weakened when knotted), and it doesn’t self Looks like a variation of an tirolian anchor, which I use quite often on non bomber anchors, but with a 6mm aramid cord. In this episode, Mike goes over three examples of a sliding X anchor using Dyneema slings. Digit Mini Yubi. You should always make the best anchor you can with what you have. 5mm nylon, rather 5. Then set up a sliding x with a sling to belay from. The sliding X can play an important role in load distribution, for example to distribute load between two weaker pieces in a more complex anchor system like the one in the first photo under the section called "The Myth of Equalization" in that link. tnaus tss usgwtll hwngwu mtnffh qzwtwty jkgz mfsqae rqwqsd ztyws